The first British asparagus of the year is an eagerly awaited treat. Its season traditionally begins on St George’s Day and runs for six weeks or so. It’s a short-lived window of opportunity that makes us savour every spear that we eat.

We’re lucky to have three asparagus farms very close by, two of which provide a pick your own option. This year, our first trip out to pick was to Rectory Farm at Stanton St John.

There, below the watchful eye of a Red Kite circling overhead, the pale sandy earth, raised in ridges that run the length of the fields, looks unpromisingly barren. But this is perfect asparagus growing territory. All along the ridges, green and purple spears spike through the soil; sometimes singly, sometimes in small groups. We opt for the thickest spears, which promise to be the tenderest and most juicy. Unlike our other local PYO, Rectory Farm doesn’t provide knives, so be prepared to leave with sandy fingernails and soily hands.

Although it’s a beautiful spot, we pick as quickly as possible. After all nothing tastes as good as asparagus that has gone from field to plate in under an hour. But there is plenty more to enjoy at Rectory Farm if you’ve time to linger. There’s a farm shop stocked with ready picked fruit and veg, and a range of local products. And Barefoot Café provides tempting handmade cakes and seasonal light meals.

Back home the asparagus is the star of a simple weekend lunch, with just melted butter, a soft-boiled egg, and brown bread to go with it. But if you aren’t planning to eat straight away you can preserve some of that newly picked freshness by standing your bundle of spears in a pot of water.

While the asparagus season itself may not last long, it marks the beginning of many more Pick Your Own outings, with plenty to look forward to in the months ahead. We’ll be back again to sample more of Rectory Farm’s produce throughout the summer, and no doubt find time for a slice of cake during one of our future visits.

Images by Helen Duncan